Russian designers to watch for

Two major fashion weeks in Russia presented Spring/Summer 2012 collections of many talented designers and here the review on what's new and hot.

I will start with Bessarion, the ispiration behind of his collection was drawn from Russian Ballet and an aesthetics of Russian national folklore, combining leather and chiffon, cotton and jersey in very refined way.

Dasha Gauser is definetely a designer to watch for. She showcased a collection with Kasimir Malevich's paintings in mind, specifically Black Square and suprematism as an art movement with bold colors, geometry and structure forms.

 And brilliant accessory ideas...

Lab 13 presented collection with common theme "Countries, cities and streets of the world" and all 13 designers chose their point of view. A HakaMa woman is a bit messy, but always edgy. Borodulin's muses are "Tsar's Daughters" of last royal family Romanov. Yulia Nikolaeva's minimalist collection reflects the mood of urban Moscow.

Tatiana Parfionova collection named "Lady-in-waiting's Garden" brings us luxury of those who were close to royals but without pomposity of past centuries. 

Alexander Arutyunov created a collection based on Soviet Constructivism architecture of Transcaucasia with it's rigor, geometrism, concise forms and monolithic  appearance. His muse is strong and noble woman of it's region. 

Nikolay Krasnikov is master of prints and texture, delivers a blossoming collection.

Viva Vox dips us in the sea of flowers: lilacs, dandelions, violets and cornflowers. And offers must-have-item of the season - detachable collars.

Chistovaendourova presented minimalist collection in polished white. The Muscovites By Masha Kravtsova created prints reminiscent of semi-precious stones of Ural mountains. Veronica Nico turns us back to feminine forms.

New star appeared on the Russian fashion arena is Dima Neu - the winner of 1st Project Runway Russia. Here are his creations through challenges during the show:

He is clearly inspired by The Ballet Russes by Diaghilev, Russian History and what keeps him edgy and modern is an obsession with anatomy. I sense here the influence of designers like Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier.

And finale:

I especially adore the idea of cutting fur (last look) in shapes of torso muscles. That's so masculine and definetely innovative. Thank you, Dima Neu, for being risky throughout the projects and that definetely showed the clear winner!

Dima Neu will showcase his new collection during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia Spring 2012, I can't wait to see what he will come up with new season.